So yesterday morning when I went out to my car to leave for work, it was making an abnormal rattle-rumble. It was roughly 0545 (I work at 0630) so I really didnt have much time to investigate.
This morning I pop my hood and the noise is coming from the left side of the Duratec. So now I get to play super-fun Ear game, " Try to diagnose that noise"..
I'm sure its on the beltline somewhere and/but I hope its not my Waterpump,A/C Clutch or my Power steering.
If this noise keeps up, looks like I'm gonna be taking her in to the Doc (mechanic) ..
A/C has suffered alot this summer, even after a recharge, so maybe it is the A/C Clutch.. :wall: :wall: :wall:
Edit: The noise doesn't seem to stop when I turn off the A/C, so that might not be it.. fuq
I had a serpentine belt stretch, and the rattling was from the tensioner running out of room to take up the slack. It was at the end of its travel so it beat against the end of its rotation ability and made a hell of a noise.
I had a serpentine belt stretch, and the rattling was from the tensioner running out of room to take up the slack. It was at the end of its travel so it beat against the end of its rotation ability and made a hell of a noise.
Sounds like the serpentine belt tensioner bearing. Not PS or AC. Though, I wouldn't rule out the Clutch, but when my AC clutch went bad (on a different vehicle) it rattled more and did stop/start the noise if the AC was on/off.
If you can, hit up Harbor Freight and get one of these:
It will help narrow down the location/cause. :thumb:
Comments about Pittsburgh Automotive Mechanic's Stethoscope:
used to isolate noise in accessory drive belt idler pully. works great
BOTTOM LINE Yes, I would recommend this to a friend
Sounds like the serpentine belt tensioner bearing. Not PS or AC. Though, I wouldn't rule out the Clutch, but when my AC clutch went bad (on a different vehicle) it rattled more and did stop/start the noise if the AC was on/off.
If you can, hit up Harbor Freight and get one of these:
It will help narrow down the location/cause. :thumb:
Comments about Pittsburgh Automotive Mechanic's Stethoscope:
used to isolate noise in accessory drive belt idler pully. works great
BOTTOM LINE Yes, I would recommend this to a friend
I guess it wouldn't exactly hurt if I spent like $10 (combined) and bought a turkey baster and some Mercon ATF and swapped out the fluid in the PS reservoir.
I guess it wouldn't exactly hurt if I spent like $10 (combined) and bought a turkey baster and some Mercon ATF and swapped out the fluid in the PS reservoir.
Well, I just used an empty spray bottle and got the old fluid out of the reservoir at least.
Refilled it with some Lucas Oil PS Fluid, turned the wheel from lock to lock for like 5-10 minutes, drove around the block, doing some turns, parked it, went inside for like 4 hours, then did this all again...
Even if the PS didn't NEED to be changed, it is now changed (the simple change, not flushed)...
Engine noise def. seems to be coming from the beltline, I just cant figure out where...
Yup. I buy the parts and my mechanic friend (been mechanic for 40+ years) will do the labor for roughly 1/2 to 1/4 of what a random shop would charge.
Sometimes it pays to have friends like that :yes:
Found a Dayco (89370) Tensioner from RockAuto..
I could go cheaper on the belt, but Dayco (5060840) PolyRIB belt from RockAuto..
Shouldn't be too bad unless he finds out something else is messed up (which at 87k* miles, I'd think not)
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