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SOLVED: 2010 MMH Brake light and check brake system message

23K views 17 replies 4 participants last post by  buckyswider 
#1 ·
Hello everybody, please help finding a solution

time by time my parking brake light comes on and the EV stops working on
my Hybrid. there no any bad feelings for brake while driving. So far i have
checked issues i found in the net and they are all fine:

brake fluid level
brake fluid masted cylinder connector
park brake sensor
tone rings
airs in the brake system

The car had an accident and i had to change the rear control arm. also the 12v battery died and for some reasons i had to push the red light behind a jack to start the car again.

what else should i check to find the real reason and to fix it.

thank you for advance for your help, i really do appreciate it
 
#3 ·
The battery did not die. The button is the fuel pump cutoff. When in an accident, that switch trips to cut the fuel supply to the engine. All modern vehicles have a similar system to shut it down in an accident.

You may still have air in the brake lines though. There is a special service procedure involving special equipment, to properly bleed the brakes. It may not be cheap, but my recommendation is to take it to your Ford dealer and have them properly bleed the brakes. Brake pedal feel means nothing in the FEH as it has a brake by wire system. There is no physical connection between the brake pedal and the wheels.
 
#4 ·
Thanks Jay, to be more specific after a car accident i could drive it with out brake light, for some reasons the battery was dead, and while jump starting the system blocked and it was showing the red triangle and not starting the car. that was a reason when i pushed that red button.

By the way I have found an interesting thing. if the light lights on and I restart the car (shut off and start the car again) with my foot on the brake pedal, the light will not go, but if I will use the parking brake, it will
 
#10 ·
Hello everybody, PROBLEM IS SOLVED (I am so happy to write it)

the problem was the brake vacuum valve. it was broken and the air was taken from the engine part while driving Hybrid. I just added other separate valve on the engine side. everything is working fine. Thank you for supporting.


the picture shows only the broken part, tomorrow i will share the video showing how i fixed it
 
#11 ·
Great you got it working again! Sounds like you found some sort of work-around for those expensive brake system parts. It would be great if you did a detailed writeup of exactly what you used, and where you installed it so if someone encounters this problem in the future, we know what to do.
 
#14 ·
to write how did i fix the problem first i will describe the problem. while driving hybrid dash board was lighting parking brake red light with the message "check Brake System. scanning the abs module it was giving error C1015:64. first i was asked to check the brake fluid but nobody mentioned that the board gives message "add brake fluid" if it is below the needed range. than i was asked to air bleed the brake system and i did it like usual cars (with out hybrid system) actually there was a little air but the problem was not solved. Later I have checked all the line from the brake cylinder to the vacuum pump and there was no problem. we have checked the vacuum pump but as the result was loosing the vacuum pressure in the system i was advised to change the vacuum pump. I did it but still no results. Finally i decided to check the brake line again and with very simple test: remove the engine side line while the hybrid was on. described on the picture 1. (the switch with the valves is located on the right lower side under the engine cover. to reach it you have to easily remove the engine cover.) the result was when the vacuum pump was starting it was taking the air from the engine side and was not making enough pressure in the brake cylinder. logically there should be a valve closing the air intake while pump was running, looking closer there was a arrow on the switch and finally the bulb appeared up my head :lol: As i have spent all my saving for getting the vacuum pump (which actually was not needed) and was having lack of money decided to choose another way. got the one line valve from Opel (GM) picture 2, and added on the line going to the engine side. picture 3. everything is working fine. :wave:

picture 1 - i have also added iron clips for connections,



picture 2


picture 3

 
#18 ·
Zombie thread revival!!!! :party:

I have the same symptom in my 2010 MMH, but it's extremely intermittent (like once a week). Trying to determine whether it's the check valve (like Irakli's issue) or if it is the vacuum pump itself. Hoping, of course, it's the former- but I'm unsure due to a lucky instrumentation observation.

I set up Forscan Lite on my phone, and have been driving around capturing a few ABS PIDs- and I finally have 'caught it in the act'!

I captured both vacuum sensors, as well as the vacuum pump on/off, and VAC_BST_ST, which I thought would be when the ABS requested the engine to turn on. But that's actually ABS_REQ_VAC, which I didn't collect. But I'm pretty sure I knew when this happened as the dashboard bonged the the Brake light went on.

To summarize the functionality: hybrids (2009+) have an electric vacuum boost pump to keep vacuum in the brake vacuum lines when running electric without the ICE. There's two vacuum sensors (I think they're both at the same spot- there's two because redundancy) and if the vacuum pressure drops too low, the electric vacuum pump is turned on. The failsafe is when the vacuum pump can't keep enough vacuum in the line. It then signals the ICE to start up to supply the crucial vacuum pressure, illuminates the brake light, and sets the C1015:64-68 in the ABS module. (I'll post a youtube at the bottom of the very excellent mechanic who 'taught' this to me- I think he's been know to post here a time or two also).

Anyhow, back to my story. You see the chart below. I plot the vacuum pressure (I only listed one, as they both stayed consistent with each other, ruling out a sensor failure). The blue is vacuum pump on/off. You'll see it hums along as planned- vacuum drops, pump turns on, vacuum back 'up', pump turns off. then about two thirds of the way through...you see the pressure take a precipitous dive. Pump turns on- vacuum continues downward (the wrong direction). After a longer-than-usual pump 'on' period, the pump is briefly shut off. Oddly at that point the vacuum seems to stabilize. Pump turns back on- vacuum starts dropping again. Eventually (near the end of the really long 'pump on' period) the ABS mod calls for the ICE to fire back up, and then vacuum recovers. Unfortunately since I had the incorred PID being captured I can't tell exactly when the ICE was triggered- was it while the pump was still on, or does the ABS shut the pump off as soon as it trigger the ICE?

Anyhow, my question was going to be: if the check valve was faulty, should vacuum recover with the ICE? But I think typing this out- and a long look at Iraki's picture above- has led me to the conclusion that yes, the engine side check valve stuck open could definitely cause the observed behavior. Engine side check valve stick open/vacuum pump dums out into the engine instead of where it's supposed to in the braking system (I have no clue how that side of it works, I just know it needs vacuum!)/ICE gets fired up and presents the proper vacuum in the line /Pump side check valves does what it's supposed to and closes off that side of the lineset due to pressure differential. I was just backing up into my driveway when this occurred- now I know I should've gone back out around the block and kept logging data to see if the situation ever recovered by way of the check valve un-sticking. But maybe once this happens the ABS keeps the ICE engaged and it's not reset until an engine cycle?

Anyhow, here's my graph followed by the excellent video. If anyone sees a flaw in my thought process, please let me know! After I found the TSB I had actually procured the replacement lineset and I have an appointment with my mechanic two days from now for him to troubleshoot and probably install that replacement lineset. It was going to be a "just to see" replacement, but I think it's probably the correct fix at this point. I don't think that vacuum pump can be intermittent like that, could it?



 
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